TankBud

One species · 24 forms

Anubias barteri

Also known as Anubias barteri var. barteri, Broad leaf Anubias

FreshwaterBrackishRhizomeRhizome division

Anubias barteri (Anubias barteri)
Aquarium Plants Factory · Used with permission

Care at a glance

Light
Low light
CO2
No CO₂ needed
Temperature
72–82°F
22–28°C
Max height
13.8 in
35 cm
Growth rate
Slow
Placement
Epiphyte
Type
Rhizome
pH
6.0–8.0
Hardness
2–18 dGH
Spread
9.8 in (25 cm)
Nutrient uptake
Water column
Growth region
Submersed or emersed
Difficulty
Beginner
Family
Araceae
Origin
West Africa

Pick a form

One setup covers every form on this page. The white and variegated lines just grow slower and hold their pattern best with a little more light.

Standard forms

Nana and petite forms

White and variegated forms

Why they are all the same plant

Anubias barteri grows along shaded stream banks in West and Central Africa, half in and half out of the water. The named forms are selections of that one species: nana is a naturally compact variety, petite and pangolino are tissue-culture sports of nana, and the broad, coin and wavy forms were picked out of nursery stock over decades. The plant underneath never changed, so every form wants the same low-demand epiphyte care.

The rhizome rule

Anubias grows from a thick horizontal rhizome, and burying it is the one reliable way to kill the plant. Tie or glue the rhizome to wood or rock and let the roots find their own way down; they can reach into the substrate as long as the rhizome itself sits in open water.

White forms want more light

White leaf tissue has no chlorophyll to work with, so pinto, snow white and the other variegated lines grow even slower than the green forms and hold their pattern best under moderate light with clean, stable water. Push the light too hard, though, and algae claims those slow leaves first; moderate is the ceiling, not the floor.

Overview

Use it as a midground or background accent and attach the rhizome to wood or rock with thread, glue gel, or by wedging it into a crevice. Never bury the rhizome in substrate or it will rot, just let the roots grab the surface. It thrives on low light and no CO2, drawing nutrients from the water column, though dosing helps. The main pitfall is algae on the slow-growing leaves, so keep it shaded and the tank stable.

In the wild

Anubias barteri grows along streams and rivers across tropical West Africa, from Nigeria and Cameroon through the surrounding region. It clings to rocks and submerged wood in fast-flowing, often shaded water, growing both submersed and emersed depending on water level. In the wild it spends much of the year above water as a marsh plant and floods seasonally.

Good to know

A member of the arum family (Araceae), it grows from a creeping rhizome rather than spreading by runners, with thick leathery leaves and a tough root system that anchors to hard surfaces. The genus was named after Anubis, the Egyptian god, a nod to its preference for shade. Like other aroids it can flower underwater, producing a small spadix and spathe.

Did you know

Anubias leaves are so tough and bitter that even notorious plant-eaters like goldfish, cichlids, and silver dollars usually leave them alone, which is why it is a go-to plant for tanks where everything else gets shredded.

Common questions

Do anubias need CO2?

No. Every form on this page grows fine without it. CO2 speeds the slow growth up a little and helps the white forms hold their color, but it is strictly optional.

Why is my anubias rotting at the base?

Almost always a buried rhizome. Pull the plant, trim away the mushy tissue, and reattach it to hardscape with the rhizome fully exposed.

Can I keep anubias with fish that eat plants?

Yes. The thick, bitter leaves are one of the few things goldfish and big cichlids reliably leave alone, which is why anubias is the classic plant for rough tanks.

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